Literature Review - QUEEN ELIZABETH I

Ryan James Lee

Theme  –  GINGER -Queen Elizabeth I

MIND MAP

• Opened my eyes to the main key words for my theme which is ginger
• Understanding the high iconic people within the ginger category such as Vivien Westwood, Davie Bowie and Annie (the film)
• These people are so different to each other, fashion designer, singer, actress
• David Bowie is a favourite of mine and I would love to do a collection on him especially with his views on music and art

MINI DISSERTATION PLAN

• My attentions were drawn to Queen Elizabeth.  I wanted to make this Queen Elizabeth theme different to other kinds of work that I have done before
• Very detailed work; cant get any higher than the Queen of England

QUEEN ELIZABETH

• I started to do my research about the politics in the Elizabethan times
• Studying about how rational the lifestyle was; hygiene was poor but people back then were extremely old fashion with no right for a say in things; human rights were probably not invented back then
• Showing more of an interest of her time really reflects on her way of life and how she grew up and the fashion that has influenced her quite a lot
• Understanding the fact that she was King Henry V111 daughter I assume she looked at him with different feelings.  She should have loved him as a father but she saw this man ruin woman’s lives and murder them mercilessly, including her mother Ann Boylan
• As she grew I feel she diss attached herself from men
• I always knew at the beginning of my research with Queen Elizabeth 1 that she was a time bomb waiting to go off.  All the men she had in her life she had to suss out to see if they loved her for herself or for being a queen
• It was unusual for a woman to ask themselves about those subjects because woman would not usually question themselves.  Queen Elizabeth stood her ground and said she would marry for love not to bind countries together
• This is her first realising that she was in control and would hopefully find the perfect person which in fact she never did

QUEEN ELIZABETH FASHION

• In her early days as Queen she had a lover called Robert Dudley and it was very conservative and private
• As she became more involved in her role as Queen she had to take on advice from her counsel and advisors who told her she needed to marry someone much higher in life
• Robert Dudley did not like this; he did not like waiting around and one day he went off met someone else and married
• I think from that emotional heartbreak that kind of sweet and innocent wanting to find love and do right by a man died inside of her
• The image of Queen Elizabeth 1 changed from a long strawberry haired fresh Queen to a woman that demanded to have her hair shaved off and wore wigs
• She created a pale face with orange lips and her clothes shined through her pain; she didn’t care about her physical features but she wanted to show the world that she was a strong powerful woman and she did this through her fashion
• As time goes on obviously Queen Elizabeth 1 is known as the virgin Queen; she never married or had children but she will always be remembered as that distinctive Queen that rebelled and took fashion to a different level of Royalty; she changed the fashion from dull black colours to colours and jewels
• Today’s Royal fashion still shows the influence Queen Elizabeth had on fashion

PRIMARY RESEARCH

·      My primary research began in Amsterdam

·      I went to Amsterdam Museum and there was an exhibition on about Elizabethan fashion and concentrating on how the shape was perceived, the neck, shoulders, arms and sleeves

·      I looked at the fabrics they had and the different types of neck ruffles that would have taken months to make

·      I looked at the different sorts of jewellery; jewellery was only for the rich but the law stated that no one was allowed to wear jewellery more extravagant than the Queen

·      Last years project ‘Birds of Paradise’ was a huge success in understanding CAD/CAM.  It was a fun new exercise for me to learn to take a simply tiny drawing that I did and put a watercolour facing on it and then on top fine lined it and scanned it and used Photoshop to edit

·      It allowed me to go down a different career path if I wanted to

·      I think it is really handy for a designer to keep my own prints in mind although it is good for me to know this knowledge

·      I am going to continue this through screen printing

·      As my primary research continues I always like to stick in the now and then image so that I can reflect back on what I have learned

ADDITIONAL DETAIL TO DESIGN

• Knowing that Elizabethan times were famous for a number of iconic fashion symbols, ruffles is the first one
• There are so many different sorts of ruffles; tight together ones, spaced out ones, spiky ones, sticking out ones, pillow type ruffles so I experimented to make all of these different types of styles of ruffles
• My researches for Churches/Cathedrals is a definite yes for photo shoots and I don’t mean having a physical photo shoot there I mean it in capturing an atmosphere and background and transferring the model onto that image

SECONDARY RESEARCH

• I really wanted to put some secondary research in from magazines of unusual items, for example a Chinese vase that’s shows floral detail and has a smooth feel; I got a lot of inspiration from the pottery and the detail people put into it and its reflection of what it is saying.
• I feel it connected with my research as it shown me that any kind of Royalty or culture is highly detailed

PERSONAL TALENTS

• The talent for me to use wire and jewellery to create a system of a symmetric pattern is growing each time I practice the talent
• It gives me thoughts that I can take bits of my designs and not just use fabrics to make beautiful display of beading
• The eye is always drawn to the detail e.g. the beading; you would automatically think that it took a long time and a lot of effort to make the detail.  When you see something like this you think about how long it took to make; you can establish that the designer has put so much effort into that garment and the audience make up their mind, pass judgement and criticism this doesn’t matter as long as they are reacting to your designs

OVERALL

• From taking the fact that I am a huge supporter of being a feminist I like to believe that men and women should have equal rights for whatever they decide to do in life.  There should be no conflicts with one sex thinking they are better than the other
• My point of Queen Elizabeth taking charge and wanting to be a feminist, she is not such a feminist that she hated men in general, she became who she was because of personal issues between her father, her lover and her right to be a successful Queen of England without the emotional issues
• Understanding her life and her depressive attitude towards love it opens up a kind of revelation with fashion
• Going from Queen Elizabeth’s fashion to the designs and techniques that I love to create, beading work, print, screen printing, detailed work, binding all of that together to have a main focus on a serious detailed, fun and thorough analysis of that life and that look in a professional artistic way
• I think that after accomplishing my collection, I think it will help me to grow in my designs and my artistic integrity throughout my career

 Queen of England - http://englishhistory.net/tudor/monarchs/eliz1.html

·       25 years old 1558 – 69 years old 1603

·       She was the daughter of King Henry VIII and his second wife, Anne Boleyn.

·       She ruled alone for nearly half a century, lending her name to a glorious epoch in world history.

·       Greatest speech to Parliament, she told them, 'I count the glory of my crown that I have reigned with your love.'

·       The Childhood of Princess Elizabeth

·       ◾The Education of Princess Elizabeth

·       ◾Her Teenage years - her life, the danger and the scandal surrounding Sir Thomas Seymour

·       ◾Her Early years as Queen of England

·       ◾Robert Dudley

·       ◾The Later Years of the Virgin Queen

Royal parties - http://elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-england-music.html

·       People during the Elizabethan era considered music as one significant part of their life. Their music is famous because of its classy and varied forms.

·       Since it was always used in theater, it should project a sense of conversation to intensify the drama. It was classified into kinds which include: Elizabethan court music, Elizabethan church music, Elizabethan town music, Elizabethan street music, and Elizabethan theater music.

·       Indeed, this was the era when people learnt to appreciate the value of music in their life. The documents from the past only showed how creative Elizabethan people were in terms of composing lyrics and creating melodies.

House of Tudor - http://elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-tudor.html

·       The first that became in power from this family was Henry Tudor.

·       His son, Henry VIII, had a longer run as monarch where he was King for roughly 38 years. Henry VII was on the throne for 24 years. Both were very impressive in comparison to remainder of monarchs from the Tudor family, except for Queen Elizabeth I.

·       The sad part is that Queen Elizabeth I was the last of the Tudor throne.

·       It was a breath of fresh air after Queen Mary I was reining over the kingdom. She had the nickname "Bloody Mary" which many people still use today in reference to drinks and things.

Westminster Abbey - http://www.westminster-abbey.org/our-history/royals/burials/elizabeth-i

·       She was crowned at Westminster Abbey on 15 January 1559 by Dr Oglethorpe, Bishop of Carlisle.

·       The service was partly in Latin and partly in English.

·       Her death was an occasion of universal mourning. Thousands of people turned out to see her funeral procession to the Abbey on 28 April 1603.

·       Elizabeth I was the last monarch buried in the Abbey to have a monument erected above her.

·       She was first buried in the vault of her grandfather, King Henry VII, in the Abbey. Her successor, King James I, erected the large white marble monument to her memory in the north aisle of the Lady Chapel at a cost of £1485.

·       The crown and collar which she wears are modern replacements, as are the orb and sceptre she carries, the originals having been stolen centuries ago

·       Just to the west of Elizabeth’s monument is a floor stone, unveiled in 1977, with the inscription “Near the tomb of Mary and Elizabeth remember before God all those who divided at the Reformation by different convictions laid down their lives for Christ and conscience’ sake”.

Catholicism – http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/religion-in-elizabethan-england.html

·       The predecessor of Queen Elizabeth I, Mary, was Roman Catholic. Mary was known to persecute Protestants. When she inherited the throne, one of Elizabeth's main concerns was the religion of England, which was mainly damaged Catholicism due to the persecutions of the minority.

·       Come 1559, the Parliament was called to create a new Church of England as Elizabeth cut off the ties with the Roman Catholic Church through the Reformation Bill. The Second House of the Parliament resisted most of the contents of this bill, which appointed Elizabeth as the Governor of the Church of England. When Parliament session resumed, two new bills were entered.

·       When the Parliament dismissed, Elizabeth, together with Sir William Cecil, made the Royal Injunctions patterned from the Edwardian Injunctions. These were basically the fundamentals such as:

·        . Clauses about clerical clothes

·        . Kneeling during prayer

·        . Bowing when Jesus' name is said

·        . Preaching and catechizing regularly

·        . The spouse of a deacon or a priest has to be interviewed and approved by a bishop and two Justices of Peace

·        . Wafer is to be used instead of ordinary bread in communion.

Puritanism – http://www.encyclopedia.com/topic/Puritanism.aspx

·       A movement within the Church of England, Puritanism called for the church's further reformation in accord with what was believed to be "the best reformed" tradition, which was taken to mean the doctrine and ecclesiology of Protestant Switzerland (Geneva, Zurich), of the Rhineland (Strasbourg in particular), the Palatinate, the Netherlands, and Scotland.

·       Puritanism was born out of dissatisfaction with the Elizabethan Settlement, the ecclesiastical order established by the Acts of Supremacy and Uniformity in 1559 by the young Queen Elizabeth (ruled 1558–1603) and her first Parliament.

·       Queen Mary I (ruled 1553–1558) and the persecution of Protestants that marked her later years, and many of the more than eight hundred clerics and laymen who had fled abroad, had hoped that Elizabeth would bring a return to the second (more Protestant) Book of Common Prayer of King Edward VI's reign (1547–1553) and to the Reformed Protestant momentum of that king's last years.

·       Golden Age – http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/daily-life-in-england-during-the-elizabethan-era.html

·       The Elizabethan age was a great era within England's long history. It spanned from 1558 to 1603. The name comes from the fact that England was under the rule of Queen Elizabeth I. Unlike the many eras where there were many battles and struggles for power across Europe, this era was relatively peaceful. Just prior to the Elizabethan era there were many battles between the Catholic Church and the Protestants.

·       The Elizabethans had a high regard for family in a community. They believed that families were role models for the community. They were standardized and followed a deep respect for the importance of hierarchy.

·       They had customary rulings for the behavior of children that were taken from Bible passages. These passages were explanations on the duty of parents in properly raising their children and likewise the responsibility of children to respect and obey their elders.

·       During this time in history, they were civil with one another and this made everything go much smoother with more focus on other areas for the nation as a whole. To top it off, the battles between the monarchy and parliament had also ceased. England during this time was a great place to live.

Battles/War - http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-war.htm

·       Elizabethan England's history saw a number of developments in terms of the creation of peace. The era was generally called peaceful as the battles between the Protestants and the Catholics and that between the Parliament and the Monarchy have subsided.

·       The reasons for the Elizabethan War with Spain from 1585 - 1603 exploded due to various conflicts surrounding the wealth and power to be gained from trade from the New World. And the differences in Religion. Under Elizabeth I England became a Protestant country. Elizabeth was excommunicated by the Pope The fanatical Catholics in Spain saw a war and the conquest of England as a religious crusade.

·       The religious differences had been boiling over many years. The following dates and events played an important part in the Elizabethan War with Spain, which lasted for nineteen years.

·       1569 The Nevilles of Durham and Percys of Northumberland plot to overthrow Elizabeth I and reinstate Roman Catholicism in “The Rising of the North”. Pope Pius V heard of the revolt and decided to help the rebels by deposing Elizabeth. The rebellion failed but the Pope's action increased her distrust of Catholics

·       ◾ 1570 The excommunication of Elizabeth I by the Catholic Church

·       ◾ 1572 August 24, St Bartholomew's Day massacre where French Protestants were massacred by French Catholics in Paris which was witnessed by Sir Philip Sidney, Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis

·        Walsingham. Similar atrocities elsewhere in France result in thousands of deaths, and caused panic in England with fears of a Catholic invasion

·       ◾ 1584 William of Orange was murdered and England sends aid to the Netherlands

·       ◾ August 14, 1585 - Queen Elizabeth issues a declaration taking the Netherlands under her protection

·       ◾ December 8, 1585 - Robert Dudley leads the English army to fight the Spanish forces who are occupying the Netherlands

·       ◾Oct. 25 1586 - The Catholic Mary Queen of Scots is convicted of involvement in the Babbington plot  to assassinate Queen Elizabeth and replace her with the Catholic Queen

·       ◾April 19, 1587 - Drake destroys the Spanish fleet at Cadiz

·       ◾ August 8, 1588 -  The Spanish Armada of 132 ships is defeated by the English fleet of 34 ships and 163 armed merchant vessels under Lord Howard of Effingham, Sir Francis Drake, and Sir John Hawkins

Independent Queen – http://www.bl.uk/learning/timeline/item102878.html

·       Famous Elizabethan Women were governed by the rules of society and their roles were subservient to the male members of their families.  Elizabethan woman were raised to believe that they were inferior to men and that men knew better! Disobedience was seen as a crime against their religion. The Church firmly believed this and quoted the Bible in order to ensure the continued adherence to this principle.

·       The Scottish protestant leader John Knox wrote: "Women in her greatest perfection was made to serve and obey man."

·       Queen Elizabeth I (1533 -1603) never married.  Queen Elizabeth I was an independent and dominant woman who would not share her throne with a man. She would have also been required to show total obedience to her husband

·       Elizabeth's Tilbury speech - "I know I have the body but of a weak and feeble woman; but I have the heart and stomach of a king, and of a king of England too".

Money/Poor living - http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-money.html

http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-people.html

·       All coins during Elizabethan Era were silver or gold, including the pennies.

·        Earlier in the past, copper was used to extend (debase) the coinage without actually adding any more silver. But no money was actually minted as a copper coin.

·       pound was noted as £

·       shilling was noted as s

·        penny was noted as d

·       During the Elizabethan age, families in England considered sex as destiny because both women and men were expected to follow the duties and responsibilities toward each other. But one good thing was that they had acknowledged, too, of the fact that education was truly significant.

·       As a whole, it was perceived to be very significant to have family ties that were close-knit and well-respected; and to regard house rules with proper obeisance.

·       Most Elizabethan people had jobs and very few were going hungry. The system was working well up until England got thrown into the Anglo-Spanish War.

Division of classes – http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/clothing-in-elizabethan-england.html

http://thelostcolony.org/education/elizabethan-era/

·       The Elizabethan period in England had a daily life based on social order: the monarch as the highest, the nobility as second rank, the gentry as third, merchants as fourth, yeomanry as fifth and laborers as sixth.

·       Under Queen Elizabeth I, the government undertook the job of assisting the laborers class and the result was the famous Elizabethan Poor Laws which resulted in one of the world’s first government sponsored welfare programs. This era was generally peaceful as the battles between the Protestants and the Catholics and those between the Parliament and the Monarchy had subsided.

·       Elizabethan Sumptuary Laws dictated what color and type of clothing individuals were allowed to own and wear. This allowed an easy and immediate way to identify rank and privilege.

·       Elizabethan Clothing was a part of the social order. It is also indicative of a particular person's status not only reflecting how wealthy or poor they are but also of their social reputation.

·       Back then it is absurd for a peasant to copy more well off individuals through "luxurious" clothing which were only worn by upper classes.

·       The upper class of Elizabethan England wore elegant and luxurious clothing that were made of expensive velvet, exotic silk and satin. Only the members of the Royal Family were allowed to own robes which were trimmed with ermine. Less noble folk wore clothing trimmed with either fox or otter.

Illness and Death – http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-england-medicine.html

·       Elizabethan era failed to give a high standard of health; people are plague by various diseases and ailments. There was a food shortage that further contributed to the difficulty of their life.

·       People living in Tople land were used to eat cows and pigs which on the other hand are notorious for eating trash.

·       The rivers were contaminated by domestic squander.

·       In view of this, epidemic diseases were on their rise. Diseases like bubonic plague would kill almost one third of the total population!

·       Moreover; tobacco, lily root, arsenic, and dried toad were as well used. For people suffering from stomach pain, it was treated by mint, wormwood and balm while rose, sage, bay and lavender were used for headaches. Vinegar was famous for treating wounds because of the belief that it has an antiseptic property.

·       Elizabethan England medicine theory is an intertwining of numerous ideas which was far related to the belief of modern time. It should be put into minds that these ideas were fabricated even before the detection of the blood circulation, and the discovery of viruses and bacteria.

·       They contain varying natures; the phlegm is cold and wet, blood is hot and wet, yellow bile is hot and dry, and black bile is cold and dry.

Elizabethan Court – http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/elizabethan-courts.htm

·       The Elizabethan court is definitely not a place you would want to be if you were being accused of a crime. This was especially the case if you were being accused of a harsh crime such as treason. Unlike today where we have numerous rules and regulations which state we are unable to torture people, this was not the case during the Elizabethan period.

·       If it was done for too long, it could have even ripped limbs apart from the body. Generally though, people who were racked would no longer be able to walk because of the injuries they sustained.

·       Another difference between the courts during the Elizabethan times and today was the laws that were in place during this time. Generally, almost all of the laws were related to religion. Obviously, there were the common ones such as killing and stealing, but the Elizabethan society took it to a new level.

·       This is much different in comparison to what we do now where the tax payers hold the primary burden of keeping the prison system alive.

·       A common similarity within the courts during Elizabethan era was there was no shyness about litigation during the Elizabethan times. Much like today, the simplest mistakes or problems would be settled in a court room. A lot of the literature from this era talks about people handling problems through litigation much like they still do today.

Parliament – http://www.elizabethi.org/contents/power/

·       The England of Elizabeth I was a very structured place, and had a rather complicated system of government. First there were the national bodies of government such as the Privy Council and Parliament, then the regional bodies such as the Council of the Marches and the North, and Then County and community bodies.

·       These three bodies would work together to rule the country, make laws, raise money, and decide upon matters of religion and national defence.

·       During Elizabeth's reign, it became settled in Ludlow, which made it effectively the capital of Wales, although it was in England. The Council of the North and the Council of the Marches were also part of a more localized method of government, and in Tudor England, local government was very important.

·       High Treason was usually dealt with by the Queen and her ministers and carried a death sentence. For other serious crimes, such as murder, a person was also put to death. Lesser crimes were punished by imprisonment or the stocks, or sometimes both.

·       The government was ruled and headed by Queen Elizabeth I, the last ruler from the Tudor dynasty and was considered by many as England's best monarch. The government at that time was considered as a personal monarchy with ministers.

·       The Privy Council worked for the Queen during the Elizabethan era. The council was a group of advisers that aided the Queen on many issues at hand. Routine administration on matters related to religion, security, economics and the welfare of the people are left on the hands of the council.

Different Kinds of Elizabethan Era Torture –  http://www.elizabethanenglandlife.com/different-kinds-of-elizabethan-era-torture.html

·       Torture, as far as crime and punishment are concerned, is the employment of physical or mental pain and suffering to extract information or, in most cases, a confession from a person accused of a crime.

·       While torture seems barbaric, it was used during the Golden Age, what many consider to be that time in history when Elizabeth I sat on the throne and England enjoyed a peaceful and progressive period, and is still used in some cultures today.

·       During the reign of Elizabeth I, the most common means of Elizabethan era torture included stretching, burning, beating, and drowning (or at least suffocating the person with water). Torture at that time was used to punish a person for his crimes, intimidate him and the group to which he belongs, gather information, and/or obtain a confession.

·       During the Elizabethan era, treason was considered as the worst crime a person could ever commit. Consequently, it was at cases of high treason when torture was strictly and heavily employed. Other heinous crimes - including robbery, rape, and manslaughter - also warranted the use of torture.

·       All throughout the period, Elizabethan era torture was regularly practiced and as a result, the people were tamed and afraid and crimes were low in number.

Elizabethan Science and Technology  –  http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/1997-05/862242528.Sh.r.html

http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-science-technology.htm

·       In engineering there was an increase in the use of water and wind to power mills, and it was at this time that Britain began to build its extensive canal network. London received its first municipal water system in 1582, when Elizabeth was Queen. And do not forget the improvements the English made in their sailing ships which (with aid of lucky storm!) destroyed the Spanish Armada.

·       In technology, the telescope, the microscope and the first effective thermometers were built and used in scientific research.

·       The Elizabethan era was the Age of Exploration from which emerged the Famous Pirate Ships and the Golden Age of Pirates! There were different styles and designs of Pirate Ships. A list of the different types of Pirate Ships were as follows:

·       1450: Johannes Gutenberg invents the printing press with movable type in

·        Germany ◾ 1510: Leonardo da Vinci designs a horizontal water wheel

·       ◾ 1510: Peter Henlein invents the pocket watch

·       ◾ 1513: Urs Graf invents etching

·       ◾ 1537: Tartaglia's gunner's quadrant for aiming cannon, 1st firing tables

·       ◾ 1540: Toriano invents a mandolin-playing automaton

•                The Sloop style of Pirate Ships

•                ◾The Brigantine style of Pirate Ships

•                ◾The Schooner style of Pirate Ships

•                ◾The Frigate or the "Man-O-War" ships

•                ◾Interesting Facts and information about Elizabethan & Renaissance Science and Scientists

•                ◾The Scientific Renaissance

•                ◾Copernicus - the Copernican Theory

•                ◾Galileo

•                ◾Kepler

•                ◾Versalius

•                ◾Harvey

•                ◾The Scientific Method

Famous Pirate Ships - The Elizabethan Privateers - http://elizabethanenglandlife.com/art-during-elizabethan-england.html

 Elizabethan Privateers were lawful pirates who were authorised by their government and sovereign to attack the treasure ships of enemy nations. The English government issued ‘letters of marque’ to the famous Elizabethan pirates which licensed these sailors to plunder enemy ships. The 'letters of marque' prevented privateers from being charged with piracy, which was an offence ordinarily punishable by death.

Elizabethan Art in England – http://elizabethanenglandlife.com/art-during-elizabethan-england.html

·       Queen Elizabeth I's loved the arts and it showed. During her reign, paintings were dominated by portraiture and miniatures in particular.

·       The Queen also took interest in her portraits. She guided many artists such as Nicholas Hilliard as well as Marcus Gheeraerts in creating stylized imagery which portrayed elegance, power and wealth. Artists like the ones aforementioned received various commissions from the Crown and they all employed the techniques from European Mannerism as well as from the school of Fontainebleau.

·       They created large-scale and full length painting which portrayed nobility in flamboyant and luxuriously decorated costumes which come with embroidery, armor, hunting gear, ruffs, lace and weapons. In doing so, they made this highly decorative yet artificial style a major characteristic of Elizabethan England Art.

·       Art during Elizabethan England was at it peak. London, considered to be the heart of England, was then a center for both culture and commerce.

·       Elizabethan England decorative arts were dominated by silver works. The demand for silver saw a significant increase due to the increase in population and expansion of both middle and upper classes.

·       Many silver plates were decorated with embossed strapwork, vegetal forms as well as grotesque figures.